10.4.15 Bamberg

It's raining this morning and chilly. According to the map we went through 6 locks during our overnight trip. I think I was awoken by each one.

Unlike Nernberg which was 80% destroyed by allied bombing Bamberg was left alone. Legend has it that's because there are 9 breweries in this town of 70 K and nobody... I mean nobody wanted to destroy beer.

The city has some of the oldest intact medieval structures in Europe.

It's reported that during its early days the sewage system was the river. There is a slaughter house (medieval) built over the river and of course that's where the offal ended up. Where did they get their water then? They made beer and everyone drank it even the kids. Of course a much lower alcohol level - just high enough to make the water disease free through the brewing process.

 

The Reformation occurred here as well however the ruler at the time wanted to keep the town Catholic so had a huge cathedral built and discouraged the reformist as much as possible.

The other story was of course the Jewish story. I imagine not unlike the Jewish story everywhere in Europe. The Jews came and went throughout the history. Our tour guide explained that there were 3 reasons why the Jewish people were removed from communities. The first was because of religious intolerance. Secondly, they as outsiders would inevitably became the scapegoats for everything that went wrong - bad crops, poisoned wells, murders. The third was that they were generally wealthier because of better business sense and where as the Christians couldn't loan money the Jews could. It was a form of reverse bankruptcy. Just kick the creditors out of town.

There were approximately 800 Jews living in Bamberg during the Nazi regime. After Kristallnacht approximately half escaped to the United States and the other half were exterminated. Now Bamberg has a progressive Jewish community with a modern synagogue and a female rabbi.

There will be a quiz tomorrow.

Once again I have to credit my husband for most of these outstanding photos - great eye and editing skills.

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10.3.15 Emerald Sun

We boarded our cruise ship. A sparkly thing that was launched new this year. We've had 3 knocks on the door already from people bearing gifts of food. At 4:00 tea there were cakes and sandwiches. I can barely fit into my 32 waist pants (the size I've worn my entire life) as it is from all of our food indulgences the past 5 weeks without any exercise. At least I have a pair of lululemon pants that are extremely stretchy that I can wear home where I will start my new diet called "The Starvation Diet".

I bought a wool hat at the market. What do you think? Me? Not me? It's certainly warm.

 

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10.2.15 The AutoBahn

I was disappointed when I realized that the top of our car folds into the trunk meaning we weren't going to be able to go topless on our trip from Fussen to Nurnberg unless we wanted to leave all of our luggage behind.

The little Z4 has a zippy engine and with low profile tires handles the curves beautifully especially at 120 mph. I'm not used to traveling at that speed but apparently others are since we were passed frequently despite the speed. In any case I drive a Tacoma so I know not of what I speak.

Love Nurnberg. Beautiful old town with magnificent looking churches and architecture. Tomorrow it's on to the last portion of our trip - a river cruise.

Fall is certainly here.

So many interesting looking places to eat sauerkraut and bratwurst but my abdominal girth is already growing unchecked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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10.1.15 The Top Down

The view from our balcony this morning. What left in the wee hours of the morning?

I was able to convince Joseph that it just wouldn't be right to have gotten a convertible and not take the top down. So we did and had a wonderful day driving through the mountains in Germany and Austria under blue skies.

We stopped in Oberammergau to browse for Christmas ornaments. The town is noted for its religious themed wood carvings.

Then we stopped in Garmisch for lunch. More Wiener schnitzel and spätzle. The cranberry sauce made the dish.

Garmisch is surrounded by ski areas. Zugspitze, Deutschland's highest peak, is just outside Garmisch so we thought why not take the tram to the top. It was amazing and harrowing at the same time. The Europeans have no qualms about saying, "Looks good. We'll put it right there."

We took another tram down to the glacier and then a train through a very long tunnel back to the base of the tram. Once again. "Sure we can put in a winding tunnel for several miles in that mountain." Below is an internet photo.

 

 

 

We rode the tram on the far right and then took the train down through the middle of the mountain. That's some crazy shit!

 

 

 

The drive back to the hotel was breathtaking. Rolling through the mountains and meadows.

Joseph has an amazing talent for photos and I'm always begging him to let me use them in my posts. This was his photo.

We got back to the hotel late for cocktails. Fortunately they hadn't started without us.

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9.30.15 Wieskirche

Misty morning. Took off to see the Wieskirche a pilgrimage Roman Catholic Church. Joseph remembers it from years of watching a movie called Christmas in Germany that this church plays a part in. It's now famous because it's a well preserved and maintained rococo style structure.

 

 

It became a pilgrimage church when a dilapidated figure of the "Scourged Christ" was seen to have shed tears. It was placed in a small chapel but because of the immediate and high volume of pilgrims a church was built to house the figure. The popularity increased when it was said that people who prayed in front of the statue were cured of disease.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had to include this picture. If you notice the back of the pew has a piece of wood that makes it impossible to sit back because it hits you right across the shoulders and upper back to keep you from slouching or dozing off. It seems to me religion required suffering for it to be worthwhile.




From there we did a drive by of the Neuschwanstein castle. You would think that if we came all this way we would at least have the patience to endure the line and hoards of people to get up to the castle. But we were content to see it from afar and stroll the streets of Fussen after another very heart German meal.

 

 

 

We strolled the lake shore for a few minutes then napped before cocktails at 5.

 

So far my absolute favorite sign directing to the restrooms.

 

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9.29.15 Bavaria with a dip into Austria

It was cool this morning. Thirty three. It turned out to be a gorgeous day after the sun burned off the lake fog. We jumped in the Beamer with Joseph at the helm and took a drive into the mountains. Our drive took us into Austria a first for both of us.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen,

 

Oberammergau

 

 

We traveled to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Oberammergau, and Linderhof where the Swan King Ludwig II built one of his 3 palaces.

Joseph and I had read a murder/mystery novel about King Ludwig II awhile ago. He was an extravagant recluse and built 3 castles or palaces. The one in Linderhof was the only one completed and where he lived for a number of years. He was castigated for spending all of his fortune and trying to spend the governments coffers on his fantasy castles. The government attempted to have him ruled insane because of his indulgences, reclusiveness and homosexuality but obviously another group just thought it easier to kill him. He was found in a lake along with his doctor - the one refusing to go along with the insanity story.

 

The palace was small and way over the top. All I could think about was how did they keep this place clean.

Home again and dinner on the lake. I'll be unrecognizable on my return home with all the weight I've put on. If not now when.

 

 

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9.28.15 Amsterdam to Enzenberg

Early morning start. Got into Munich mid morning. We were upgrade at no charge to this sports car (Z4 BMW) for our drive to Enzenberg at the foot of the Bavarian alps. We had to empty a couple of our suitcases so we could stuff every nook and cranny of the trunk. I haven't been able to get Joseph out of the drivers seat.

 

 

 

 

Our hotel (Hotel Geiger) is on Lake Hopfensee. It's beautiful. Gorgeous mountain peaks with a placid lake in front. People promenading around the lake shore with their dogs.

It was Joseph's birthday. Want to know how I remembered that? We drove past a pile of pumpkins on the side of the road. Joseph's birthday cake is usually a pumpkin pie. It was only then I remembered it was his birthday. Whoops. Yes we are still married because he has such a huge heart.

We stopped at the Andec Monastary for some food and the beer that's brewed there. It's what I'd imagined a beer all to be. Everyone sitting in a large hall around common tables. I had the crispy pork knuckle (ham shank) with warm sauerkraut and a pint of dark beer. It was delicious but I'm still recovering from a sick stomach - not sure wether it was all the fat or the sauerkraut but haven't seen hungry since.

 

 

We had a good nights sleep in spite of the indigestion.




Wanted to share this last Amsterdam picture. A couple strolling their youngster as well as the oldster.

 

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